For the last day I planned relaxed sightseeing and to feel the atmosphere of this town. To be honest: I failed partly as the weather was filled with rain, heavy thunderstorms (some flood warnings are still active) but in between always some sunny moments. The visit of the Jazz Museum was on top not possible as the museum is closed for renovation until 2010. Sad, but reality.
Nevertheless this town has a lot of atmosphere - outside the center nice villas, everywhere trees, alleys, parks, nice museums (e.g. the visit of the sculpture garden of the Art Museum is very recommendable) cool people - this town deserves the nickname 'Big Easy' (by the way, I still didn't see this movie ...). And similar to Nashville I get the feeling that everyone is related in tourism and of course music. I have a long chat with Smoky Greenwell who sells during the day tourist stuff but at night he plays harmonica, sax and sings together with his 'BLUES GNUS' excellent Blues music. A sympathical guy and his latest CD really recommendable!
It continues raining and that brings of course Hurricane Kathrina closer - today you do not anything which relates to this terrible flood which came two years ago. When you compare fotos of the past and the flood with the actual situation then the changes are getting more obvious. For example I was wondering why the Hard Rock Cafe in NO doesn't have any 'landmark' as it is usual - it had!!! unfortunately the 10 meters guitar didn't survive Kathrina.
Evening: Vieux Carre - what else. Business as usual: loud music everywhere and too many drunk people. The whole French quarter is a big party area, they do not need Mardi Gras to do party!
For my understanding again too much pop and Rock and not enough traditional stuff. Of course one place with Cajun/Zydeco (washboard & accordion in the lead!), the one or other Blues place but Jazz is not that widespread. Beside the yesterday described places I spent today most of the evening in PRETZEL - a somehow german!!! Jazzclub. The big surprise there was the fact that the musicians there are all around 30 years old and the public is young despite the traditional music. The girls and guys really try to develop the traditional music - you can see a mixture of New Orleans Jazz, Dixieland and also Swing elements (e.g.: the traditional banjo is replaced by three!!! acoustic guitars - wow what a new and different sound). When you see that you feel that this music is not at his end. The spirit of Louis and the others will continue!
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